Domaine de Bellevue at Castelnaudary, near Carcassone

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DOMAINE DE BELLEVUE

Just when it seems you have seen the most beautiful part of France, when nothing could be more breathtaking than the majestic Alps, the vineyards of Burgundy in the autumn or the Mediterranean glistening in the distance beyond the sun-baked garrigues of Provence, you chance upon another region that once again is overpowering for its sheer natural beauty.

Such is the impression upon arriving at Domaine de Bellevue, an exceptional property that is replete with the robust character of Languedoc-Roussillon countryside, and arrayed with more comforts and amenities than houses of twice the cost.

From the sundeck atop the century-old house, situated on a vast terrain of fields and woodlands, the panoramic views of the surrounding landscape could not be more magnificent. On the northern horizon are the Montagne Noire (Black Mountains), noted for their sheep farms and vineyards, while to the south lie the Pyrenees, their peaks capped with snow even into the month of May. Less than 40 km to the east is Caracassonne, center of the pays de Cathar and home of the world's most authentically preserved medieval city; and 61 km to the west is Toulouse, a city that seems equally devoted to the arts and to the cultivation of France's thriving corporate economy.

Surrounding the hilltop property on all sides are fields and meadows with huge patches of sunflowers lodged like giant postage stamps among emerald-green fields of barley and other crops. From the 6 m X 12 m (23' X 46') pool, there is a view of the little-traveled country lane that leads to Castelnaudary, where within a ten-minute drive there are shops and a supermarket to meet all shopping needs. For modern comforts, convenience and charm of the French countryside, it is hard to imagine a more perfect vacation property than this lovely home.

Domaine de Bellevue was constructed in 1907 by a physician who later became world-famous for his treatment of child tuberculosis. The house consists of three levels, all impeccably restored, furnished and appointed to the same high standard. There are commanding views of the countryside from all rooms. The furniture is a mix of traditional and contemporary motifs, the floors throughout are of polished wood, and the walls are a soft yellow with cream-colored trim. Decorations include a number of tasteful modern oils by local artists, interesting objets d'art and along the staircase walls and throughout the house, a fascinating collection of professional-quality photographs of the owners' world travels.

On the first level are a large entry hall that opens to the living room, dining room and the country-style kitchen, one of the most beautiful and professionally equipped we have seen in France. There is also a lovely guest cloakroom with WC off the foyer, and a broad oak staircase with a sturdy railing that leads to the upper level.

The living room, which has large windows facing south toward the Pyrenees, has a comfortable sofa and two loveseats grouped around a working fireplace with marble mantle. This is a pleasant place to catch up on world news on the large-screen television, which has a VCR, DVD player and satellite reception (including CNN and BBC), or listen to music from the full stereo system concealed in the bookcases.

One can imagine both casual family dinners and a formal dinner party for up to twelve guests in the adjacent dining room, which is visible from the living room through a wall of glass doors which can be opened up, creating one large room. A graceful chandelier illuminates the elegant cherry-wood table, deliberately created in a square to facilitate conversation. Owing largely to their polished woods and refreshing colors, marble fireplaces and carefully chosen art, both the living and dining rooms have an ambiance of warmth and comfort without being overly opulent.

The spacious kitchen, where the lighting can be adjusted from a soft glow to brilliant, has everything the gifted cook could ask for, including a double sink, long olive-green granite counters, walls of cream-colored cupboards with good china and stemware, and wide double windows which look north over the Montagne Noire. The appliances, all new and of top quality, include a four-burner electric cook top with oven in a separate work island, dishwasher, large two-door refrigerator with icemaker, wall microwave oven and a variety of countertop appliances. For breakfast or family dinners there is a farm table for eight.

Domaine de Bellevue has three bedrooms on the middle level, and three on the upper living level. While each of the six bedrooms is decorated in a different style, all have full beds with headboards, firm mattresses and pretty bedspreads. The bedding is new and of top Italian quality. Each bedroom has a closet or armoire for hanging and storage space, and large windows that provide abundant light and beautiful views. Most have fireplaces (non-working) with elegant marble mantles. All bathrooms are bright, spacious and well appointed with new fixtures.

The three bedrooms on the middle level open from a large central landing. The commodious and beautifully decorated master bedroom, which has large windows with views toward the Pyrenees, has a king-sized bed and lovely ensuite shower room with a large tile shower. The shower room does not have a WC.

The second bedroom, which communicates with the first, has a wonderful wrought iron four poster Romantic style bed and a full ensuite bath with tub, hand-held shower and WC. The third bedroom, which like the second faces north, has a queen-sized bed and, just outside on the landing, a large bath with a tub, separate stall shower and WC. The WC is also convenient to occupants of the master bedroom just across the landing.

One of the most delightful aspects of Domaine de Bellevue is the extraordinary set of rooms on the upper level. Guests of any age, but especially children, will likely spend much of their time here when not enjoying the pool or exploring the meadow and woodlands surrounding the property.

First, there are three cheerfully decorated bedrooms, one Moroccan style with a king-sized four poster bed and two that may be split into twins. These bedrooms share a large bath, tiled in white, with a tub, separate stall shower and WC.

For the reader there is an equally competing retreat - a library and seating area with a small sofa and armchairs that has been created on the wide landing at the top of the stairs. With floor-to-ceiling bookcases and a vista of the Pyrenees, this cozy area is a delightful place to relax and read a book, perhaps chosen from one of the interesting volumes in the library.

As if all this were not enough, there is a crowning touch (literally) at Domaine de Bellevue - a roof deck, reached by a staircase from the third level, with two lounge chairs and a wrought-iron table with four chairs (summer only). Here guests can relax in the sun, enjoy meals or cocktails or simply take in the stunning 360-degree views of the surrounding countryside. Far below, the white walls and bottom of the swimming pool appear like a sandy beach in a field of green.

Domaine de Bellevue's immense grounds (about 7 hectares, 22 acres) are crisscrossed with paths that wander through the woods thick with pine, cedar, elm and chestnut, many of them centuries old. For children there are endless opportunities to play cache-cache(hide and seek). Here and there along the pathways are shady glens with benches, ideal spots for reading or to pause for an impromptu conversation.

The chlorine-free swimming pool, newly created in the hillside that slopes away from the south side of the house, is reached by a path with timber steps, illuminated at night, that winds through greenery to the wide flagstone deck. There are plentiful chaises longues, chairs and parasols on the natural stone deck.

Near the house and the large parking area is a stone barbecue and table for up to twelve. Under a grove of pine trees there is a pleasant seating area where guests can relax and enjoy the views.

As with any fine property, Domaine de Bellevue has no shortage of amenities to enhance guests' enjoyment of their stay. Guests can stay connected thanks to a wireless high-speed Internet connection. In the basement laundry room is an American-style washing machine, a separate tumble dryer and ironing facilities. The rental price includes a once-weekly housecleaning of four hours, with additional cleaning available at extra cost. The owners have also provided extensive information on the region and local restaurants worthy of a visit.

At the top of anybody's list of daytrips to places of interest will be Carcassonne, the medieval city fortified by various rulers over the centuries to withstand a slew of hostile forces, among them the Crusaders. Carcassonne has been impeccably restored, and is now one of France's most visited sites. For a more genteel destination guests may consider a walk or barge ride along the peaceful Canal du Midi, which is minutes away. Golf, tennis and horseback riding are also available nearby.

France is the land of food and wine, of course, and the products of Languedoc-Roussillon are much celebrated by gourmets everywhere. Visitors can find those products in abundance and at bargain prices in a number of local open-air markets, the most colorful of them being the market every Saturday morning at Revel, 20 km to the north. Castelnaudary has a market on Monday morning, and Carcassonne on Thursday and Saturday mornings. With fresh vegetables, poultry (Languedoc is famous for its duck) and cheeses (including the local Cantal) from the markets, perhaps supplemented by supplies from the supermarket at Castelnaudary, guests can try their hand at traditional dishes like cassoulet and confit de canard in Domaine de Bellevue's superbly equipped kitchen.

Oenophiles will also find much of interest in Languedoc, which is best known for its red wines made from grenache, syrah, merlot and other grape varieties. Regional appellations that appear on wine lists of fine restaurants all over France include Cabardès, Fitou, Minervois and the rich full-bodied wines of Corbières.

For dining out there are dozens of local restaurants that serve regional cuisine at reasonable prices. Three outstanding restaurants, all rated one star in the Michelin Guide Rouge, are within a 30-minute drive - the splendid La Barbacane at Carcassonne, Auberge du Poids Publique at St.-Felix-Lauragais, and Château de la Pomarède at La Pomarède. For a simple dinner Le Tirou in Castalnaudary offers an excellent cassoulet dinner for as little as 15 euros.

A property that so successfully combines modernity with genuine bucolic appeal is rarely found in Languedoc, or indeed anywhere in France. We recommend Domaine de Bellevue for those who are seeking natural beauty and a full measure of country charm, but without any sacrifice of cosmopolitan comfort.