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CHATEAU DU PLESSIS

Château du Plessis is one of the finest examples of a property restored and furnished with excellent taste and amenities - with a deft nod to comfort and convenience - that we have ever seen in France. It has all of those intangible qualities that make a property attractive, including an unexcelled location in the Loire Valley near Tours, carefully tended and inviting grounds and high-quality appointments. Of course, it is the wonderful combination of these qualities and myriad other features that make Château du Plessis a place to have a truly unforgettable vacation with friends or family.

The history of the château is long and storied and starts more than 500 years ago. The central part of the building was constructed by a Scottish archer who was a mercenary of King Louis XI. His family owned the house for several hundred years and it was expanded in the 19th Century when both wings were added and windows were enlarged for light and air. The château’s claim to fame is that the 19th Century writer Honoré de Balzac was occasionally welcomed to Château du Plessis for lunches.

During the 1800s the attic was converted into living space, with dormer windows added, giving the façade an oft-maligned neo-Gothic touch. Another interesting part of the history occurs in the 1960s when an Algerian-born Frenchman bought the château and the farmland surrounding it and planted fruit orchards in the hope of increasing his fortune. The fruit markets fell in the 1970s, he went bankrupt and the château fell into disrepair. Two subsequent owners saw their dreams of restoring the château to a comfortable country home fall apart, the challenges of modernizing and restoring such a massive house proving to be too much to handle. The current American owners bought the property in 2002 and set about restoring the property from stem to stern, including a new roof, new heating, plumbing and electrical systems, new hardwood floors throughout, reconstruction of those dormer windows to better blend with the original Renaissance style of the château, several new bathrooms and reconfiguration of existing space to better suit modern needs and aesthetics.

The result is a property that is supremely comfortable for two or three couples or a family with older children. The owner’s attention to detail can be seen in every room, and renters are provided with a very thorough guide to the house. The house book outlines exactly how to use particular light switches, manipulate the various window screens, light the stove and everything in between. The house book also includes suggestions for activities in local towns and villages, including restaurants. The house book for Château du Plessis is the most detailed we have encountered, and its light and humorous moments together with the clear and thorough explanations are a reflection of the care and precision the owners took in making the château the wonderful home it is today.

The château is approached from a long driveway through a large entry gate. This stately entrance provides a hint of the treasures within. Parking is available either along the front or rear façades with a carport for four in the rear. The front entrance opens to a center hall, paved in pierre de Bourgogne, which connects the public rooms on the ground floor, including an attractive powder room tucked into a turret of the tower whose sturdy wooden spiral staircase leads upstairs to the bedrooms.

To the right of the entrance hall is the spacious salon, with 12-foot ceilings with exposed wooden beams and a massive stone fireplace. 18th Century antiques blend with plush sofas to create a pleasing atmosphere, and light from a large window on the west side and the French doors opening to the front patio on the east side make this a most comfortable room. Hidden in a cleverly fashioned wall closet next to the fireplace is a large TV with satellite reception and DVD/CD player with surround sound.

To the left of the center hall through large double doors is the dining room, with its own huge fireplace and beamed 12-foot ceiling. This stately room, with a large oriental rug over hardwood floors, has a similar window and access to the front patio through French doors, assuring ample light. The Louis XV-style wooden table seats eight comfortably and can accommodate up to 10. Painted cupboards, a built-in buffet with glass shelves and rich curtains finish the decorative touches in this impressive room.

Past the mudroom with access from the rear entrance is the kitchen, spacious and light, with a massive center work island providing additional storage for the extensive assortment of dishes, serving pieces and cookware, not to mention a host of small appliances. At the end of the island is an elevated pewter counter with bar stools providing seating for four. Additional seating for two or three is possible at a small bistro table. Kitchen equipment includes a professional gas stove with oversized electric oven, second electric wall oven, microwave, large two-door refrigerator with icemaker, dishwasher, trash compactor and disposal. The smaller appliances include a coffeemaker, espresso machine, toaster, juicer and mixer. Tucked in one corner is a 20” flat screen TV that enables the cook to keep up with local or world news. A 19th century wrought-iron spiral staircase in the opposite corner leads to the office above. French doors with screens open onto the terrace on the western side, which has several tables for enjoying breakfast or an aperitif. This terrace wraps around the corner of the house to the main dining area on the south side, which includes a large marble-topped table for eight or ten and a Weber gas barbecue.

The final room on ground level is the new salon d’été, aptly named for its southern exposure and windows on three sides. Accessed from the kitchen through two large glass pocket doors, the luminous room provides a comfortable and unique place to experience the outdoors while inside. French doors with screens open to the south-facing terrace. Two powerful ceiling fans assure airflow during the few hot days of summer, and the pierre de Bourgogne floors emphasize the natural feeling of this room. Guests can enjoy a movie or the current football match from the 50” plasma TV with DVD and surround sound. A dining table in one corner seats six.

Beyond the south-facing terrace outside the salon d’été, about 60 meters from the château, is the lovely pool and its wide flagstone terrace. Plenty of chaise longues are provided to enjoy the pool (measuring 4.5 m X 14 m , 14.75’ X 46’) and the nearby structure, a former stable, will be renovated into a practical pool house for 2008. The pool is far enough away from the château to assure utter tranquility for those remaining at the house yet close enough to be able to saunter over for a quick dip without packing a whole day’s supplies. An indoor/outdoor ping pong table can be wheeled out for friendly matches.

On the first upstairs level are two large bedroom suites. The Balzac bedroom, named in honor of the 19th Century writer (who might have repaired here after lunch for a tryst with one of his mistresses), would be dominated by the California king-sized canopy bed were it not such a large room. A seating area with two armchairs and an ottoman provide a place to enjoy the books in English from the large bookcase or catch up on the news from the 24” TV with built-in DVD and stereo tucked in an armoire. A small writing desk offers the chance to write postcards to friends and relatives telling them about all the wonderful experiences they are missing in the Loire Valley. Two ceiling fans assure ventilation in every season. A walk-in dressing room leads to the bathroom, with double sinks and a corner bathtub with wall shower and WC.

The second suite on this level is the Bancroft room, with a canopy queen-sized bed and smaller walk-in dressing room. That this room has almost identical equipment to the Balzac room attests to the owner’s success in assuring equal accommodations for two couples. The screened windows on the East and West sides together with two ceiling fans assure proper ventilation year-round. The bathroom for the Bancroft room is on the hall next to the room and has double sinks, an oversized shower and WC.

From the Bancroft room one can access the study above the kitchen. Here vaulted beamed ceilings rise nearly 20 feet, with screened dormer windows on the east and west sides to provide ventilation. Additional light comes in at all hours from a skylight on the southern side. The large walnut desk holds an all-in-one printer that is available for guests’ use as well as phone jacks and the DSL modem. Phone jacks are also available in each of the rooms. A single sofabed is available for the unexpected guest. Next door is a full bathroom with tub and wall shower and a large single vanity. The washer and dryer as well as ironing facilities are found in this bathroom, also accessible from the kitchen’s wrought-iron staircase below.

Two large bedrooms are on the top level, accessed by the tower staircase. The blue room has twin beds and is decorated in an English country cottage style with flowered bedspreads, canopies and curtains. Wood furniture is painted in light colors over hardwood floors. Opposite this room is the green room, virtually identical in furnishings but with a pink and green decorating motif. On the hall is a full bathroom with double sinks, tub with wall shower, separate stall shower, dressing table and WC. Both bedrooms on the top level have screened windows on both sides and a ceiling fan for ventilation. These bedrooms are most appropriate for older children or young adults.

The caretaker lives in an apartment attached to the château (the original north wing) and is available to solve any problems or answer any questions. He is exceedingly discreet and respectful of guests’ privacy. A cleaner comes for an hour each day to keep the château tidy. She may be engaged for extra time to make beds or do laundry or ironing, or to prepare a home-cooked meal.

The château is set amid 19 acres of mostly flat ground with forests and a stream forming one border of the land. Days can be spent wandering the acreage or appreciating the atmosphere from any of the terraces or the salon d’été. The village of Thilouze is less than 2 kms from the château and provides all the necessaries for daily commerce. Walking to the village from the château for morning bread or a stop in the café is an authentic French experience in every way, with a path that crosses through woods to the village. The village itself is typical, with its narrow cobbled streets and the center place bordered by the 12th Century church, the mairie (city hall) and the café. Bustling Tours is just 20 kms from the château and offers history, gastronomy and convenience via the TGV station at Saint-Pierre-des-Corps a few minutes’ outside of the downtown area. Tours is wonderful for a visit or two during a stay at Château du Plessis, and its pace as a small French city makes guests appreciate even more the tranquility and refinement of the château. One could not be better situated for exploring the treasures of the Loire Valley: Azay-le-Rideau, Villandry and Ussé are all less than 20 kms from the property, with a handful of other incredible chateaux, including Chinon and Chenonceau, less than 50 kms from Château du Plessis. The owners leave their own Restaurant Guide of Touraine for those who wish to sample some of the many fine restaurants in the area. There is a public tennis court in the village of Thilouze, and the nearest golf course is at Château de la Touche in Ballan Miré just 15 kms to the north. Hiking is a favorite French pastime, and the château is perfectly situated for walks long or short, easy or challenging. The owners leave extensive information and maps for those who wish to discover the Touraine countryside on foot or by bicycle (excellent bikes are available for rental with prior notice). Other local towns and villages not lucky enough to be graced by a château offer weekly farmer’s markets, shopping and sightseeing opportunities. With its extensive appointments, attention to detail throughout and impressive history, Château du Plessis has everything the discriminating traveler could want or need during a stay in this storied region of France.