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CHATEAU DU TRICHOT

More than 800 years ago, when the English and French were struggling for control of Aquitaine, the vast region of Southwest France that incorporates Dordogne, Bordeaux, the Médoc and some of the finest red-wine vineyards in the world, some now long-forgotten local baron set about building a château near the fortified town of Tournon d'Agenais, in the département of Lot-et-Garonne.

Château du Trichot was a noble structure, even for a period when counts and dukes were frantically building new châteaux and fortified bastides to ward off the English armies. One of the château's most striking features was an incredible staircase, more than two meters (6.5') wide with gentle steps etched into the limestone, that enabled horses to ascend to the stables that occupied the upper floor.

By the late 20th century the horses and stables were gone, the château was being neglected, and the village of Tournon d'Agenais, like an occupying army, had installed the mayor's office in a small room adjoining the main living room. The château entered a new chapter in the 1990s, when the current owners purchased the eight-hectare (20-acre) property, bid the mayor adieu and set about a full-scale renovation. This 12th-century structure is now fully modernized, although without any diminishment of its great historic character. The many high-ceilinged rooms been have furnished with exquisite taste, from the choice of fabrics to the antiques in the common rooms and the good-quality bedding in the bedrooms. The concluding coup de grâce was the construction of a large swimming pool and a tennis court. Château du Trichot has entered the 21st century, now ready to write new chapters in the book of stories that have happened within its venerable walls.

One of Château du Trichot's most magical aspects is the varied foliage of its immense grounds. There are lawns, vineyards, woods of beech and chestnut trees, and under a grove of cedars, a large picnic table for dining outside. Around the château and its outbuildings are landscaped gardens, and graceful stone arches connect the château with the courtyard. Beyond the courtyard are the pool and tennis court. From the rear terrace there are views of Thézac, a nearby village with a pretty church and picturesque lanes, but no commerce.

The foyer, which has an antique cupboard for hanging coats, sets the tone for the château. Ahead is the living room, a warmly decorated space with vaulted ceilings, three comfortable sofas grouped in front of a huge stone fireplace and, on one wall, a built-in armoire. For entertainment there is a full stereo system, a television and an upright piano. Two rooms open from the living room - a guest lavatory, and a small bedroom (formerly the mayor's office) that is most suitable for a staff person, or perhaps an elderly guest who prefers ground-floor accommodations.

The dining room, separated from the living room by an arch, is furnished in an equally handsome manner. For elegant dinners there is a dark wood refectory table for up to 14 guests, a long buffet and, for pre-dinner cocktails, two leather sofas that face each other. Illuminating the whole scene is an iron chandelier. One can imagine a medieval feast at tables groaning with steaming platters of wild boar and tankards of wine while the horses paw quietly in their privileged quarters upstairs.

From the dining room two doors open onto the terrace and pool area. An interior door leads to the laundry room, where there are a washing machine and separate dryer. Also in the laundry room is a simple bathroom with a tub, hand-held shower and WC.

Beyond another impressive arch is the kitchen, which is well equipped and fitted with the usual complement of modern appliances, - dishwasher, large two-door refrigerator, two wall ovens and a variety of countertop gadgets, including a microwave oven. The long stone countertops surround a stovetop with four gas burners.

The staircase, which rises from the foyer, leads to the main bedrooms, all of which have tall windows and high (4 m, 13'+) stone ceilings with exposed beams. Each bedroom also has bedside tables with good reading lamps.

The master bedroom, at one end of the hall, is an impressive suite of rooms with a king-sized four-poster bed and a brocaded spread that contrasts with the light stones of the walls. There is a sitting area with two loveseats and a large writing desk, and an additional single bed. The ensuite bathroom is tiled in an attractive shade of rose, and has a tub with overhead shower and a WC.

The second bedroom, carpeted in light rose, has a 140 cm (55" across) double bed, a chest of drawers and a crib. A sturdy wood ladder leads to a small mezzanine, where there are two single beds and a small chest of drawers. The ensuite bathroom, tiled in blue and white, has a stall shower and WC. This bedroom has a view over the vineyards and toward the rooftops of Thézac.

At the far end of the hall is the third bedroom, which also has a 150 cm (59" across) double bed, an armoire and a small dresser. Large windows overlook the front of the property with its cedar groves, stately driveway and wide lawns. The ensuite bathroom, also tiled in blue and white, has a stall shower and WC.

A small staircase leads to the third level and another bedroom and a sleeping area for children. The bedroom, especially spacious, has three single beds and overlooks the courtyard. Half a flight up an iron spiral staircase is the Tower Room, a paradise for children, where there are three single beds, a small armoire and a chest of drawers. These two bedrooms share a bathroom on the hallway that has a tub with overhead shower, twin basins and a WC.

Throughout the château there are tapestries, tasteful wall hangings and area rugs that offset the omnipresent medieval ambiance of the thick walls and solid stone floors. Those same thick walls keep the château cool in summer, and in winter they retain warmth from the fireplaces and powerful central heating system.

In the warm months, guests will take full advantage of the many outside activities offered by Château du Trichot. Early risers can greet the morning with a brisk set of tennis on the well-maintained regulation size court. When the day turns warm, guests can enjoy the 6 m X 12 m (20' X 39.5') pool, which has a wide deck and an assortment of lounge chairs for relaxing and enjoying the countryside views. For the younger set there is a small table and matching chairs on the pool deck.

The ideal place for outside dining is the broad terrace just outside the dining room. There is a barbecue here, and several tables with parasols that can easily be moved to different positions for maximum shade. For an authentic picnic, there is the aforementioned table and benches under the cedar grove at the front of the property.

Château du Trichot is situated between Cahors (44 km) and Villeneuve-sur-Lot (26 km) in a green and fertile agricultural region known for its teeming fruit orchards, deep forests and the vineyards that produce the much-admired hearty reds of the Cahors appellation. Cahors is a fascinating town, and its impressive cathedral, the fortified Pont Valentré and the medieval quarter are all worth visiting, as are its many antique and food shops. On the outskirts of the town there are supermarkets for major shopping expeditions. For golfers there are good 18-hole courses at Villeneuve-sur-Lot and Agen (41 km). The Lot River is well known to vacationers for its sailing, kayaking and fishing opportunities. Prehistoric caves and of course medieval châteaux abound in the region. Meanwhile there is village after village to discover, each one bearing a different but authentic remnant of French tradition and history.