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MAS DE LA VALLEE

Rounding a curve in the little unpaved road and glimpsing Mas de la Vallée from a distance, one is confronted with two massive walls of gray rock that loom out of the greenery like the sides of a huge ocean liner. The walls are joined and pointed at an angle like the prow of a ship, and at the tip of the prow is a wrought-iron railing. The vision is reminiscent of the film "Titanic," where the two daring lovers stood in the full flush of youth and romance on the prow of the ship only minutes before its fateful rendezvous with the iceberg.

But no, neither Leonard DiCaprio nor Kate Winslet is in sight here, and we are not in the North Atlantic, but in Provence, in a peaceful valley of the Alpilles mountain chain, a little slice of silence and solitude only five minutes by car from the village of Saint-Etienne-du-Grès, which lies 8 km kilometers west of its better-known sister, Saint-Rémy-de-Provence.

Perhaps you are a weary vacationer craving a holiday home in Provence far from the madding crowd, a property of extraordinary beauty and serenity devoid of any noise of civilization and without any other habitation in sight. You also insist on a high level of creature comforts and want to have a variety of restaurants, quality food shops and sites of interest within easy driving distance.

If this profile describes you, it is time to turn off your computer, abandon the notion that The Property of a Lifetime lies just one more click away, and sign up without further delay for Mas de la Vallée.

Taking the curving driveway through the grove of olive trees - there are literally hundreds of them lining the road to the property - one arrives at the mas itself, a long, rectangular structure whose off-white shutters, beige stucco exterior and terra cotta tile roof create a uniquely Provençal picture. From this vantage point, the function of the two massive walls of rock becomes clear: they act as a framework, like the sides of a sandbox, for a sprawling piece of level ground cut into the valley’s hillside. Returning to the Titanic analogy, standing on this ground is like standing on the deck of a ship, with the prow pointed toward the west.

On the back side of the mas, further up the hillside, are the 6 m X 12 m (19.5' X 39') swimming pool with its new pool house and a tennis practice wall, both reached by a steep stone path. But what gives Mas de la Vallée its idyllic character, as can be viewed in photographs that accompany this description, is the lush patch of greenery that stretches the entire length of the south-facing facade. This long swath of soft green grass, almost of putting-green quality, is framed on one side by a stone wall and on the other by a gravel area dotted with urns planted with brightly-colored flowers. The lawn is equally inviting for a swarm of children with a soccer ball as it is for properly attired ladies and gentlemen ready for a rousing game of croquet. Along the stone wall are centuries-old shade trees, and under them groups of teak chairs and a wrought-iron table with chairs to pause and take in the remarkable beauty of the setting. At the west end of the garden is the afore-mentioned prow with its wrought-iron railing. From this lofty place one can survey the valley, its flanks thick with pine trees, and the endless groves of olive trees that surround the 13-hectare (32-acre) property.

According to legend, Mas de la Vallée derives its name from a wealthy magistrate in nearby Tarascon who in 1776 decided to build a spectacular residence. At this time it was fashionable for wealthy families in Avignon to construct weekend homes in the Alpilles. Not wishing to be outdone by his big-city brethren, the magistrate created a magnificent country home in the form of a stone mas two stories high and some 50 meters long. To reinforce its imperial demeanor, he set the house on the lofty perch it occupies today, where it looms above the valley like a fortress.

Public rooms

In its original form, before it falls into the hands of a modern-day architect, the classic 18th-century Provençal mas typically has low ceilings, small to medium-sized rooms rooms, tiny square windows (to keep out the cold winds of the mistral), and an irregular design. The architect of Mas de la Vallée eschewed these motifs, instead designing a house with expansive rooms, high beamed ceilings and wide windows that admit abundant light. The exterior design is almost symmetrical, more typical of a bastide, with windows balanced on either side of a main door situated in the center of the front facade. One characteristic which Mas de la Vallée and the more typical mas share is massively thick stone walls.

The public rooms on the first floor of Mas de la Vallé include a large sitting room, dining room and country kitchen. Each of these rooms, handsomely appointed with fine rugs and antiques, complements the feeling of an elegant country estate. Stone or terra cotta tile floors, rich woodwork, exposed stone walls and tall windows that reach almost to the ceiling further contribute to the atmosphere of warmth and antiquity.

With its graceful front lawn, spacious public rooms and five bedrooms, Mas de la Vallée is especially appropriate for entertaining, whether for a dinner party or overnight guests. The dining room table, set in front of a fireplace and illuminated by a chandelier, can seat up to a dozen guests. A baby grand piano sits unobstrusively in a far corner. The living room has two sofas ranged in front of a wide fireplace, several armchairs, occasional tables and built-in bookshelves lining one wall. This room is equally conducive to reading, conversation or enjoying an after-dinner digestif with friends.

The country atmosphere carries over to the kitchen, which is adjacent to the dining room and opens directly onto the gravel terrace along the front facade. The kitchen is fully equipped with a dishwasher, microwave oven, large refrigerator, four-burner gas stove and wall-mounted conventional and microwave ovens. Breakfast or informal family meals can be enjoyed at a wooden farm table that measures three meters (almost 10') long. Just off the kitchen is a guest lavatory and a pantry.

Bedrooms

Mas de la Vallée has five bedrooms, one on the ground floor and four on the upper floor. Each bedroom is charmingly furnished in a traditional style, and has its own bathroom with WC. The bedrooms all have bedside tables with reading lamps, ample closet space or an armoire, and large windows with views south onto the Alpilles.

With the exception of the central bedroom on the upper level, which is slightly larger, all five bedrooms are roughly the same size. The property can thus accommodate up to 10 guests in total comfort with relatively equal amenities. All but one bedroom has its own entrance from the outside, a bonus for guests who return late from dinner or who take a midnight dip in the pool.

All bathrooms at Mas de la Vallée have been recently remodeled in a tasteful style that features beige tiles, deep showers with glass doors, and extensive overhead lighting. The fixtures are chrome or white porcelain, and all but one bathroom has a heated towel rack. The uniform result in each bathroom is a fresh, contemporary feel that that complements the traditional style of the bedroom furnishings.

The ground-floor bedroom is situated at the west end of the mas (this bedroom can be identified in the pictures above by the table and chairs on the gravel terrace just outside the French doors, one of which is open in the photo). This room has a queen-sized bed and an ensuite bath with a spacious stall shower framed in tile and glass.

A stone staircase leads to the upper level and a small landing. To the right is a cozy and attractively appointed bedroom with twin beds. The bathroom for this bedroom (the only one where the bath is not ensuite) is some 10 steps away, and has a double vanity and a large stall shower.

To the left of the stairway landing is a wide hallway - lined with windows that look toward the hillside on the north side of the mas - from which the three other bedrooms open. These three bedrooms can be reached directly from the outside by an external staircase.

The first of these bedrooms, somewhat larger than the others, has a queen-sized bed and a spacious bath with double vanity and a stall shower. The second bedroom in this group, simply decorated and most appropriate for teens or younger, has twin beds and an ensuite bath with shower.

The last of this trio of bedrooms, at the west end of the mas, has a 140 cm (55" across) double bed and an ensuite bath with double vanity and a large stall shower. This bedroom, which can be identified in the photos as the end room (it has one window open) on the upper floor, has terra cotta tile floors and windows that open in two directions. Another feature that makes this room especially appealing is that it lies at the end of the hallway, and can be closed off to create a separate suite.

Pool and pool house

The swimming pool is reached by a stone path - the path is some 50 meters long and should be negotiated with care - that leads up from the north side of the mas. At the halfway point there is a level stretch with a pétanque (boules) court and tennis backboard.

The pool is surrounded by a wide stone deck generously furnished with deck chairs and parasols. A hammock is suspended between a pair of pine trees. A new pool house, in the hillside a few steps below the pool, is equipped with a hot water shower, WC and a small refrigerator for drinks.

Services by the caretakers

The caretakers at Mas de la Vallée are a pleasant French couple who live in a residence that is on the property but separate from the main house. The caretakers greet arriving guests, assist with luggage and are always on hand in case of a problem.

The rental price includes daily housecleaning and laundry services. While there is a fully equipped laundry facility on the upper floor of the mas, guests are requested to leave operation of these machines to the staff.

A home for all seasons

Mas de la Vallée has a good central heating system that keeps it warm and inviting in all seasons. The property is especially appealing when the vineyards and orchards begin to bloom in the spring, and during the wine harvest in early autumn. A reasonable quantity of firewood is provided for the several fireplaces.

Saint-Etienne-du-Grès and its environs

Even with its bucolic setting, Mas de la Vallée is no more than a five-minute drive from the little community of Saint-Etienne-du-Grès. While less well known to tourists than its popular neighbor to the east, Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, Saint-Etienne is an authentically Provençal village typical of the Alpilles region of Provence.

Saint-Etienne has a variety of commerce, including a presse that sells international newspapers, a pharmacy, bakeries and a handful of specialty shops. Restaurants abound at Saint-Rémy and nearby villages, in particular at Fontveille, a 10-minute drive, and Maussane-les-Alpilles (15 km). The famed L'Oustau de Baumanière is at Les Baux, 12 km. Even more spectacular is the superb Bistro d'Eygalières, a 25-minute drive, which has now risen to a two-star rating in the Michelin Guide Rouge.

Visitors to Mas de la Vallée will want to visit Saint-Rémy to explore its many boutiques and, on Wednesday morning, its open-air market. Another interesting town is Maussane-les-Alpilles, which in addition to its Thursday morning market has a variety of small stores and quality food shops, including a butcher whose rosemary-scented leg of lamb is known throughout the region. Maussane is also home to a cooperative that, according to cookbook writer Patricia Wells and other culinary experts, produces the finest olive oil in France.

The medieval cities of Avignon, Arles and Nîmes - the last two have Roman theatres used to this day for bullfights - are all within a drive of 45 minutes or less, as are the perched villages of the Lubéron, among them Gordes, Ménerbes, Bonnieux and Lacoste. For opera aficionados there are summer performances featuring internationally acclaimed singers at the Chorégies d'Orange, staged in the ancient Roman theatre at Orange, and at the opera festival at Aix-en-Provence. Both festivals have websites with schedules and advance ticketing arrangements. Theatergoers will be interested in the renowned drama festival at Avignon during the first three weeks of July, while dance enthusiasts visiting in late July will not want to miss the week-long festival of classic and modern ballet at in the outdoor Cathédrale d'Images at Les Baux. Vaison -la-Romaine, an hour to the north, also has a three-week dance festival in July that attracts some of the world's top companies, including Martha Graham, Merce Cunningham and Ballet National de Cuba.

For golfers there are several excellent courses in the area. Within a 15-minute drive are both the picturesque nine-hole Golf des Baux-de-Provence, and the difficult but lovely 18-hole Golf de Servanes at Mouriès. The 18-hole Golf de Nîmes as well as Golf de Pont Royal - the finest course in the region - are both less than 45 minutes away.

Being in southern Provence, Mas de la Vallée is within easy striking distance of the villages and beaches of Mediterranean. For a dinner of freshly grilled fish by the sea it is a drive of 90 minutes or so to Bandol and Cassis, once ancient fishing villages and now trendy international resorts with marinas lined by cafés and restaurants. The beaches of Saint-Tropez are just over two hours. It is a drive of less than three hours for a daytrip to the Picasso museum at Antibes, or to view the remarkable post-Impressionist collection at Fondation Maeght near Nice.

International travel connections

Mas de la Vallée is easily accessible by train, plane and automobile from international destinations. The TGV station at Avignon is a drive of about 30 minutes. Marseille-Provence International Airport, which has several flights daily to London and Paris, is a 50-minute drive. An entrance to the Autoroute system at Cavaillon, the complex of superhighways that links France from border to border, is a half-hour drive.