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LE MOULIN DE DOURDAN

Entering this venerable mill house, which is in the lush countryside south of Paris near the cathedral town of Chartres, is like stepping into the pages of House & Garden, Elle Décoration or the German magazine Ambiente. The experience is literally true in this case, as Le Moulin de Dourdan has been featured in all of these prestigious interior design publications. Richly colored fabrics, huge oil paintings in beautiful frames, fine 19th-century French and English antiques, tapestries draped from high ceilings, fascinating collections of unique objects, oriental rugs and kilims overlaying original tile floors, and a terrace surrounded by expanses of soft grass - one or all of these are around every corner in this extraordinary property.

Yet for all its sophistication, there is an air of informality here, an ambiance that is more in tune with a beautifully appointed country estate than a self-consciously elegant Parisian drawing room. This is a place shaded by tall willows and linden and poplar trees, a place where sheep graze in the meadows and ducks swim on the large man-made lake that is part of the 3.5-hectare (8.7-acre) property. On a cool day the rooms are warmed by giant stone fireplaces in the living room and kitchen and master bedroom. And while it might be most appropriate to entertain in the sumptuously decorated living or sitting room, guests tend to gather at the farm table in the country kitchen, where copper casseroles are suspended above the cast-iron stove and fine china is stowed in armoires.

Clearly, Le Moulin de Dourdan is an inviting place to unwind in a pastoral setting of exceptional beauty. Yet its proximity to Paris - it is a drive of 48 km by the Autoroute to the steps of Notre Dame - adds another dimension to the vacation experience here. One can be the Louvre, Alain Ducasse or L'Opéra de la Bastille in an hour, or less in light traffic. The palaces at Versailles and Fontainebleau and the magnificent 12th-century cathedral at Chartres are all less than a 40-minute drive, as are four historically classified châteaux, including the remarkable Château de Rambouillet and its lovely gardens.

For sporting enthusiasts, there are abundant opportunities in the region. Cyclists can enjoy back roads that lead through gently rolling hills, then return for a swim in the lake, which also has a small rowboat. For horseback riding there are stables less than 10 minutes away. The Rochefort Golf and Country Club, open to guests of the mill house, is less than five minutes by car. Here there are tennis courts, a restaurant and a superb 18-hole golf course whose long fairways make it one of the most challenging in France. There are three other excellent golf courses within a 40-minute drive.

The original part of the mill house was built in 1685, according to records in the local town hall. It was one of several mills constructed in the 17th century along the Remarde River near the towns of Dourdan and Rambouillet. Before the Revolution the Bourbon kings would repair to this region of meadows and dense forests to hunt fox, deer and wild boar. The mill continued in operation until probably the early 20th century, when alternative sources of power rendered its quaint interlacing of waterways anachronistic. While the ancient mill wheel is long gone, the water courses to this day through locks and stone channels, feeding a goldfish pond in the courtyard and creating everywhere the sound of softly rushing water.

The current owners acquired the property in 1975, retained a prominent Parisian architect and set about a project - an undertaking that ultimately spanned almost two decades - to restore the mill and its barn, stable and dovecote. Massive ceiling beams were stripped to their original state, interior woodwork restored, new sources of natural light created, tile floors restored, and all-new mechanical systems, appliances and a full array of modern conveniences installed.

During the restoration process the owners came upon a reminder of how importantly this region figured in World War II: in the courtyard, workers unearthed an English-made World War II flare gun and part of an airplane propeller, remnants from a British Halifax bomber, brought down by German anti-aircraft fire, that crashed less than 200 meters (a meter is about a yard) from the mill house on June 3, 1944. Seven airmen died and another was taken prisoner. The event is commemorated by a monument in the nearby village of Longvilliers.

As for the three outbuildings, they were dismantled stone-by-stone and rebuilt as three comfortably furnished separate cottages with a rustic decor that reflects the long-standing tradition of horsemanship and hunting in the area. One cottage was designed for guests, another to accommodate visits by the owners' children and grandchildren, and the third for the guardian, who oversees maintenance of the property.

One of the most striking architectural achievements of the 440 m2 (4,735 sq. ft.) millhouse is how harmoniously modern conveniences have been wedded with the essentially rustic character of the mill house. Another is the incredible luminosity in each of the three structures. In the mill house light streams in from all directions through French doors that open from the common rooms to the garden, and through large porthole windows that have been carved in the ancient stone walls to bring light to otherwise dark spaces, in particular the living quarters upstairs. The cottages are equally bright, and like the mill house enjoy fine views over the lake and fields that surround the houses on all sides.

Le Moulin de Dourdan lies about 700 meters from the road that connects the towns of Dourdan and Rambouillet. A high earthen embankment shields the property from virtually all noise from cars on the road. The lake, which comprises almost an acre, is surrounded by a carpet of thick green grass, and beyond are copses of trees and fiewlds that in spring are bright with cherry blossoms and poppies. The cobblestone courtyard with its lawns and flowerbeds, the vine-covered buildings with their pale-blue shutters, the arched wooden bridges over the waterways - these all combine to create the image of the quintessential French country property.

The mill house

A visitor's first impression of the mill house begins with the entry hall. This room, large and grand, has the high beamed ceilings, wood accents and generous window space common to all rooms in the house. A table is piled high with straw hats, and a brass urn is filled with antique walking sticks. At the end of the room opposite the massive front entrance there are French doors, one of several pairs that open from the common rooms onto the terrace running along the south facade. From the entry hall an elegant wooden stairway rises to the upper level, and under it is a spacious guest lavatory. To the left are the sitting and living rooms, and to the right the large kitchen.

The ground floor common rooms

The sitting and living rooms, both filled with natural light, are decorated in a manner that draws heavily on striking antiques (such as the remarkable Louis XVI roll top desk in the sitting room), large oil paintings, and plush sofas and armchairs upholstered in fabrics that are rich in color and texture. Bookcases rise to the ceiling, and everywhere the tables are filled with objects d'art and gorgeously illustrated books on art, fashion and interior decor. In the sitting room is a full stereo system with CD player. These lovely rooms are for all seasons, to be enjoyed with the doors open to admit fresh breezes in the summer, or with a log fire in the cool months.

For sheer country warmth there is no room more inviting than the country-style kitchen. Dominating the room is a wide stone fireplace, its mantle lined with a collection of iron teapots. A gracious English farm table with matching chairs can seat up to 12 guests.

Kitchen appliances include a professional-quality iron stove with four gas and two electric burners, two wall-mounted ovens, a dishwasher and two-door refrigerator. Blue-and-white tile counters and a large butcher-block work island provide generous workspace. In the storage rooms next to the kitchen are an American-style washing machine and separate tumble dryer.

The bedrooms

On the upper level is a landing with a comfortable sitting area. In another space, a handsome wood desk with a view of the courtyard provides an ideal spot to set up a laptop computer for writing. Opening from the landing are the master bedroom suite and a guest bedroom, both of which have views over the courtyard and countryside. There is also a third small bedroom, adjacent to the master suite but with its own entrance from the landing, that is suitable for a single overnight guest.

The regal master bedroom suite, which occupies one entire side of the upper level, is both supremely comfortable and a decorative tour de force. The canopied king-sized bed faces a fireplace with a limestone mantle, and from the windows there are gorgeous views over the fields. The television has a DVD player and satellite reception that brings in BBC, CNN and scores of other international channels. The exceptionally commodious ensuite bath has twin basins, an oversized bathtub with hand-held shower, and a WC. Adjacent to the suite is a charmingly decorated dressing room, appropriate only for the occasional guest, with a sitting area and a canopied antique bed. This room can be reached either by the master bathroom or from the landing.

The guest bedroom, large and beautifully appointed, has twin 140 cm (55" across) beds with pretty rose-colored coverlets, and a large armoire. Decorations include an interesting collection of 19th-century prints of châteaux and country life. The ensuite bath, which has a lovely view of the countryside, has an oversized bathtub and hand-held shower, and a WC.

Dining outside

For outside dining guests may take advantage of the terrace and garden on the south side of the mill house. For small groups there is a table with benches in the garden, which is enclosed by stone walls that are covered in summer with flowers and climbing vines. For larger parties there is a wide stone terrace with a dining table that can be reached easily from the kitchen area. The terrace is an ideal place to dine while watching the sun set in the west.

The cottages

The three cottages at Le Moulin de Dourdan - the Guest Cottage, the Children's Cottage and the Guardian's Cottage - are situated along bends in the river, making roughly the shape of a horseshoe around the courtyard of the mill house. Standing in the front entrance to the millhouse one sees the Guest Cottage to the left, the Children's Cottage ahead, and the guardian's cottage to the right. Between the structures, which are separated by about 25 meters, there are lawns and stone pathways. In the middle of the courtyard, near the pond, is a tall weeping willow tree.

While the cottages are not as luxuriously appointed as the mill house, both the Guest and Children's Cottages have generous living space, tile floors and beamed ceilings, comfortable sofas and armchairs, modern bathrooms, central heat and telephones and televisions. With the cottages Le Moulin de Dourdan can accommodate up to eight guests with additional room for the occasional visitor.

The Guest Cottage, formerly the stable, has been renovated in a way that makes it well suited for grown children, or for a couple who desire extra room and privacy. The rooms include an entry hall, a large living room with cathedral ceiling, and a loft bedroom with twin beds that can be combined to form a king-sized bed. The spacious bathroom, on the ground floor off the entrance hall, has a large bathtub with hand-held shower, and a WC. The cottage receives abundant natural light and has views of the lake and courtyard. It is especially appealing on a cool night when a fire is burning in the living room fireplace.

The Children's Cottage, formerly the dovecote, has been designed for family living. In addition to a cozy living room with a fireplace and shelves filled with books and games, there is an attractive and well-equipped kitchen with four-burner stove, dishwasher, under-counter refrigerator and a breakfast table for four. The view of the fields and lake through the Dutch door in the kitchen is a storybook picture of French country living. Upstairs, where skylights admit lots of light, there are a sitting area and two simply decorated bedrooms (one is reached through the other), each with twin beds. The blue-and-white tile bathroom, on the ground floor, has an oversized bathtub with hand-held shower, a separate shower that is open, and a WC.

Services

While the gracious owners of Le Moulin de Dourdan are usually on hand to greet guests, the resident guardian is always available in case of a mechanical problem, and for an extra fee can assist with shopping or other chores. The rental price includes housecleaning twice weekly and a change of linens once weekly. Additional cleaning, laundry service and a cook to prepare some or all of guests' meals are also available at extra cost.

Le Moulin de Dourdan, like many other distinguished properties offered by JUST FRANCE, offers guests an opportunity to experience a part of rural France that has changed little in the last two hundred years, and to do so in an aesthetically pleasing environment replete with modern comforts. We recommend this property especially to those who appreciate pastoral calm, and in particular to those whose enjoyment of pastoral calm is enhanced by knowing that the world's most exciting city is only a short drive away.