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MAISON DES PELERINS

After playing it safe by staying in well-known and oft-reviewed hotels in major cities, sometimes part of a tour group, other times solo, there comes a time when a visitor to a foreign land decides to make the transition from a tourist to a well-seasoned traveler looking for ways to enhance the overall experience of being abroad. What better way to really get to know an area, its people, customs and traditions than to live among the locals in a home of your own? Whether for a first or fifth trip to the South of France we can think of no better place to experience the many joys of a small Provençal village and to fully immerse oneself into la vie française than to stay at Maison des Pélerins in Sablet.

The transformation from a ruin to a structurally sound house took place a few years ago by the previous owner. The renovations were completed in the spring of 2006 by the current American owner who, with much care, thought and special attention turned the property into the hidden gem it is today: a warmly decorated, truly inviting and comfortable space for one to four guests to call home during their time in Provence.

Maison des Pélerins is tucked at the end of quiet lane at the very top of the village, next to the 12th-century church and a short distance from the main village square. Access to the house is by two big flights of steps on foot from the main square, or by car winding around the circular-shaped village in a small rental car. The vehicle should allow room for passengers and luggage and should be piloted by an experienced driver comfortable navigating the traditionally narrow streets of old Provençal villages. The climb to the parking spot near the house has some tight passages.

The only missing feature, a pool (an extremely rare find for any village house), is more than made up for by the affordable year-round rates and the many amenities available to guests such as wireless high-speed Internet connection (which also allows free unlimited calling to the US, Canada and Europe – land lines only), satellite TV reception and a multi-zone DVD player. The owner even provides stationary for guests, including postcards, a thoughtful touch indicative of the attention to detail throughout the house.

Located between the historic and interesting towns of Orange and Vaison-la-Romaine, the perched village of Sablet itself is like a postcard. Home to a mere 1,300 residents, the charming village is just large enough to have everything necessary for daily needs. With a café, two bakeries, a butcher, green grocer, florist, post office and a restaurant there is all the commerce one could need for general purposes.

Upon arriving at Maison des Pélerins the courtyard garden beckons, tucked away to the left of the ancient entry. It is here that one can dine outdoors in a vine-covered area complete with a table and chairs for four and two sun loungers, surrounded by delicate perfume of oleander, climbing wisteria and lavender. Herbs ideal for cooking such as rosemary and basil and many potted plants further dot the area with color and an olive tree accentuates the unmistakable Provençal atmosphere. The soft trickle of water from an antique fountain is about the only noise at the top of the village, save for the soon to be familiar song of the cicada, chirping of birds or chiming of the St. Nazaire church bells. This pleasant garden can also be accessed by the kitchen. A door opens directly onto the area for easy transport of food and beverage.

The main entrance of the house opens onto a small foyer. The large and luminous living room is to the right. This cheerful room has very comfortable overstuffed furniture, including a large sofa and two armchairs upholstered in a sueded golden yellow fabric arranged around a glass-topped coffee table. There is a large television with satellite reception and DVD player for keeping up with world news or entertaining younger guests with the latest releases. A wood stove in the corner of the room will take the chill off of any late fall or winter night, supplementing the central heating which allows year-round enjoyment of Maison des Pélerins. The floors in this room as throughout the entire house are terra cotta.

Just behind the living room is cozy office nook ideal for setting up a laptop computer. There is a small writing desk and chair, futon-style sofa and bookcase.

Four steps up from the office is the sunny dining room. There is a round wooden table and white painted chairs for six in this room with a view. A large window brings in plenty of natural light and also affords long-range views with of the tile-covered rooftops in the forefront, vineyards in the middle and the Dentelles de Montmirail mountains in the background. An attractive buffet stores table service for eight. An old cheese chart serves as a stand for the stereo with CD player.

Next to the dining room is the kitchen. Bright, open and surprisingly spacious for a village house, the well-equipped kitchen is fitted with new appliances including a five-burner gas stove, electric in-wall oven, large 2-door refrigerator, dishwasher, microwave and tea kettle. With plenty of workspace between the stone countertops and large center island, meal preparation is a pleasant experience. A table for four creates an additional spot for dining away from the main dining room and outdoor area, ideal for breakfast, a quick snack or light meal.

There is a large powder room on the ground floor off of the entrance hall which can also be used as the WC for one of the two bedrooms.

When the time comes to turn in for some rest there are two cheerful bedrooms and two baths on the second floor. The bedrooms are quite equal in terms of size, décor and comfort. Both have king-sized beds with wrought iron bed frames, built-in shelves for storage, exposed beams and stunning long-range views of the village, vineyards and mountains. The first bedroom has a small ensuite bath with single vanity and shower. There is no WC. The second bedroom uses the white and green tiled bath in the hall with single pedestal sink, tub and wall-shower combination and WC. This bathroom also houses the Miele washer and separate tumble dryer.

Maison des Pélerins offers one to two couples or a small family an affordable alternative to hotels or B&Bs without having to sacrifice many amenities only found in larger luxury homes or four-star establishments. Available April through October with other periods on request, the owner’s time and attention make the well-located house less like a rental property and much more like home. Maison des Pélerins is an excellent value for the money and a wonderful opportunity to experience la vie Provençal.